Kyoto + Osaka

Kyoto

​I can’t talk about Kyoto without first mentioning the bullet train from Tokyo. The train is one of the fastest in the world, reaching speeds up to 170 mph and zipping by some of the most scenic regions of Japan. Despite sitting on the wrong side of the train for the best views, I was lucky to have an adorable old Japanese woman call me over when Mount Fuji was in sight. Mount Fuji is the breathtaking volcano you often see when skimming through photos of Japan. It can even be seen in the distance from some places in Tokyo, like the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building’s free observation level. I had no clue the train route passed right by Mount Fuji, with beautiful mountain ranges in the distance. Note to anyone taking the train from Tokyo to Kyoto, sit on the right-hand side facing the mountains!

Kyoto is the most visited city in Japan. It’s known for its beautiful temples and shrines, as well as its older neighborhoods with traditional wooden houses and geisha culture. It’s also easily the most crowded place I visited in Japan — and I am writing this in retrospect after visiting more cities in Japan! My biggest recommendation for anyone who decides to visit Kyoto is to go to the tourist sites as early as possible. If that means getting up at 5:00 am to take a train to the Fushimi Gates, do it. I promise it will be worth it.

​I personally think I had too high of expectations for Kyoto. I still loved it, but it was overwhelming (Arashiyama and the bamboo forest is a tourist trap! Do not go there unless it’s the crack of dawn). I did, however, enjoy Kyoto’s nightlife and did not get up early to visit the tourist sites. I also was there on a weekend, which meant even the locals were out and about. Regardless, one of my favorite parts about Kyoto was the nightlife in the Pontocho Alley area. There are a couple of streets with little alleyways connecting them that have the cutest bars and restaurants. The streets walk along a beautiful river with willow trees and the alleys are full of glowing white and red paper lanterns. On the weekend evenings, street performers play music and sing songs along the riverside. The streets in Gion are also full of beauty at night and definitely a sight to be seen. Our favorite bar that we visited was a tiny rock bar calling Rock ING Bar. The owner is a Japanese man who genuinely loves rock music. He is always smiling and having a good time. He will take any music requests, as long as they fit the rock theme.

​While in Kyoto, I began researching more about Buddhism to better understand the shrines and temples we were visiting. I learned that the Buddhist’s symbol, Manji, has several meanings from strength to compassion. It looks similar to a Nazi swastika because the Nazi’s specifically took the symbol from the Buddhists and tilted it slightly for their own use. Ironic how such a beautiful, traditional symbol from one of the kindest religions was used for such hatred and disrespect. I also learned that the torii gates, commonly found at the entrances of Shinto shrines, mark the transition into the sacred. The Fushimi InariShrine has over 10,000 orange torii gates that guide visitors up a mountain to several shrines. It’s a beautiful hike up old stone steps through the forest and well worth continuing past the shrines at the bottom to reach the one at the top, where it is less crowded. There is even a beautiful viewpoint about halfway up that looks over all of Kyoto and Osaka in the distance.

​On my last day in Kyoto, I wanted to relax and do something more authentic. So I took a train an hour north to visit a tiny onsen in the small mountain town of Kurama. You should have seen how big my smile was. The town was exactly what I was looking for. The trees were bright with autumn foliage, the houses were the traditional Japanese style, and the only sound was coming from the river that ran through it.

Now, this was my first time experiencing an onsen. Onsens are traditional Japanese hot springs that continue to be a part of the Japanese culture today. Since you must not wear any clothing in an onsen, there are separate hot springs for men and women. Upon arrival, you remove your clothing, shower, and then enter the pool. I must admit, the experience took me a while to be comfortable with, but you quickly realize that everyone is minding their own business and its all about relaxation anyways. I ended up really enjoying it.

On my last day in Kyoto, I wanted to relax and do something more authentic. So I took a train an hour north to visit a tiny onsen in the small mountain town of Kurama. You should have seen how big my smile was. The town was exactly what I was looking for. The trees were bright with autumn foliage, the houses were the traditional Japanese style, and the only sound was coming from the river that ran through it.

Now, this was my first time experiencing an onsen. Onsens are traditional Japanese hot springs that continue to be a part of the Japanese culture today. Since you must not wear any clothing in an onsen, there are separate hot springs for men and women. Upon arrival, you remove your clothing, shower, and then enter the pool. I must admit, the experience took me a while to be comfortable with, but you quickly realize that everyone is minding their own business and its all about relaxation anyways. I ended up really enjoying it.

Afterward, I attended a traditional tea ceremony back in Gion downtown. The women who hosted the tea ceremony were extremely welcoming and kind. We entered their traditional Japanese home and learned the history behind traditional tea ceremonies, which still occur in Japanese society today. The tea prepared in the ceremony is matcha, which has several health benefits and is known for both waking up the mind and relaxing the body. They walked us through the steps and then we got to make our own matcha. They were impressed by my tea frothing skills, using the traditional bamboo whisk.

Osaka

After Kyoto, I made a stop for a night in Osaka. Osaka is known for its nightlife and abundance of street food — and it definitely did not disappoint! However, I will say the street food is meat heavy and there were hardly any veggie options. I did visit the famous Dotombori Street and had some delicious curry from T&A Curry House though. In the morning, the Dontombori is practically empty and can easily be missed by passerbys. At night, it comes alive with lights and sounds everywhere, and the entire street is packed with people.

While in Osaka, I had the best vegan meat I’ve ever had from Shizen Bar Paprika. It was so delicious that I ordered a second portion of it, but Japanese portions are half the size of American ones anyways! I also finally tried matcha flavored Kit Kats while in Osaka, which tasted similar to a Starbucks matcha latte.

The other main attraction of Osaka is the Osaka Castle. It’s a stunning castle built atop a ginormous stone foundation. It’s surrounded by huge stone walls and a giant mote. I must say, the stone walls were quite impressive. 

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